Which information do you write on coin holders?

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Hello,
after 27 years of collecting coins I bought the 1st time coin holders.
But now I have the problem which information I want to write on the labels?
Should be the balance between work and information.
And at coins which I can't read, I want more information as for example at euro coins.
Are you so kind to show here some examples from you?

Without having my problem. I think it's always interesting how other collectors manage their collections...
Thanks
Peter
On the front, country and catalogue number on top, date and denomination on bottom. I also place a coloured sticker. red if it's a low grade I want to upgrade, green if I'm happy with the grade.

on the back mintage at top, catalogue value at the bottom, grade on the right, coin composition on the left.

Thank you for the 1st example.
Is there a reason why the ruler isn´t important for you?
Every kind of coin detail you can think of, I have, at one time put on a flip.

Narrowed it down to this example


The section of slip at the top is useful to place between the top edge, should the coin need to be removed.
Miniature works of art struck on metal with an infinite number of variations, from all around the world, found in your pocket.
Quote: "alamir"​Thank you for the 1st example.
​Is there a reason why the ruler isn´t important for you?
​I just like the coins, I don't care who was in charge of the country at the time they were made.
Quote: "alamir"​... which information ... to write on the labels?


​I don't write - I print info on a small adhesive address label and glue them to the top and/or the bottom of the coin holder. This way it looks much better than a handwriting (and especially better than my handwriting).
As for the information, for me KM number, denomination and year are compulsory while the country is optional.
There is a time for everything - Il y a un temps pour tout - Всему есть свое время - Для всього свій час, і година своя кожній справі під небом
I don't have the patience for writing things on coin holders, to be honest. I use archival plastic flips instead of paper 2x2s, and I keep information about each coin (including where I bought it and how much I paid) in a spreadsheet.

I like the flips because it is very easy to quickly switch out a coin if I upgrade it for a nicer example, and I also enjoy being able to see the edge. And there's something about 2x2s that seems to distort the size of a coin for me.

It does mean that my collection is considerably more "opaque" to anyone else looking at it, but really I'm the only person who spends any time looking at it.
For standard definitive coins I put Denomination, Year, Mint letter if there is one, and Country
Like This......
20 Cent 2016G




Germany

For Commemorative coins I put all the above plus the Reason for the Commemoration
Like This......

€2 2016G




Germany - Dresden

Cheers Mike

I use the staple type 2x2 coin flips, you can always open them to put in a better coin and re-staple them
Referee for Australia & New Zealand Coins & Exonumia, Papua New Guinea & Cocos & Keeling Islands Coins & Australian Banknotes. I Collect > Australia, UK & Dependancies, NZ Sets, USA & Euros plus Misc Exonumia.
 :) first of all check the edge !!! Because count that you see it last time  :) information about edge would be written on holder if there are variations in edges,
To say the true, when you have Numista, nothing important needs to be added. .
Maybe just how much you payed :)

But if you collet medieval or ancient coins, all important details should be added.
1. weight
2. size
3. obv/rev orientation.
4. mintname
5. ruler
6 main detail whch is important for this exact coin: such as countermark/ different letter, missing mint

yours
D
Quote: "Dato Mikeladze"​:) first of all check the edge !!! Because count that you see it last time :)
​For coins with edges that have an interesting design/wording (or that I just want to be able to see) I use a larger coin-size flip so there is space around the coin and the edge is still visible.

Also, in addition to a lot of the info others have mentioned, I write (on the back) where I got the coin. A lot of my coins have come from different people (family/friends) and so I am a bit sentimental and want to remember where it came from.
Thanks for all the informations.
I like to put the country, denomination, catalog number, and design on the front. The back is where I write precious metal fineness, precious metal weight, and I use a code to show what I paid for the item.
Library Media Specialist, columnist, collector, and gardener...

On the holder I only write the basic information: Country, King, Reference, coin name and date.
For the remaining information I use and Excel file where I can register also a picture, description, market value, weight, diameter, axis, acquisition date and origin of the coin, etc....
Referee to Old Portuguese colonies
Great information and beautyful coins!


I use BROTHER label printer
Quote: "PashaLT"

​Something like that

​Nice! Do you put anything on the back?
I don't write any information. I keep coins in my holders and easily recognize it.
Usually no.
But considering to put there condition.
To keep front not overloaded
For modern coins I never use "UNC" . I mark only coins which are less then UNC. Also, I never write ANGOLA or SOuth Africa on the holders of Angolan or SA coins. I write only important information, which needs time or additional accesories ( book, net, scale, etc )
Great question.

I use different type of holders for coins which I'm satisfied with, and not actively searching for and those which I will eventually look to upgrade, so I can see at a glance where efforts are needed (I avoid filler coins but I like to have uniform standards). I like to have all the commonly needed information right there on my album page - year, denomination, composition, mintmark, cat. # and mintage total.

However, I've found that too much information on the holder takes the focus away from the actual coin! So now I use tiny printed labels for the year and mintmark only. For everything else I use a sheet of white card behind each album page with the secondary info. aligned behind each coin.
Non illegitimis carborundum est.  Excellent advice for all coins.
Make Numismatics Great Again!  
Quote: "pnightingale"​I use different type of holders for coins which I'm satisfied with, and not actively searching for and those which I will eventually look to upgrade, so I can see at a glance where efforts are needed
​To me this is important, especially if you have a lot of coins. I do the same but use a red or green sticker.


top left: country
top right: date
bottom left: precious metal with % and any variety comment
bottom right: mint mark

i might start writing the denomination some day.
I think there might be as many different ways to label your coins as there are collectors. It all boils down to personal preference and what information you find important. My preferences are:

On the side of the flip showing the coin's obverse:
- upper left corner - country name
- upper right corner - date
- lower left corner - denomination
- lower right corner - catalogue reference (if known)

On the side of the flip showing the coin's reverse:
- upper left corner - composition (metal type)
- upper right corner - fineness (if gold or silver)
- lower left corner - ASW or AGW (if gold or silver)
- lower right corner - name of mint location if known

Have fun making up whatever labeling "rules" work for you. :`
I think " Germany" and 1966 are redundant information on the 1966 Germany coin
Quote: "Dato Mikeladze"​I think " Germany" and 1966 are redundant information on the 1966 Germany coin
​Nooooo.... that's the year we beat them in the World Cup Final. "1966" and "Germany" are forever fixed in the mind of every Englishman. It's like the JFK assassination for the Americans.

Two world wars and one world cup...... you would think they'd give it up already.
Non illegitimis carborundum est.  Excellent advice for all coins.
Make Numismatics Great Again!  
Phil, World Cup of 1966 is 1st one which I remember.We may talk about in Free discussion:D.
Depends on the coin really.

On pre-19th century coins I like to add the denomination, year (or range if specific year is not possible) and ruler (if possible):



On 19th and 20th century coins I just add the denomination and year:



I thought about adding the country of origin but since my interests are very limited and most of my collection is Austrian, German, Hungarian and Venetian I see no need to include it.
I collect and deal in ancient Roman coin. In case you're looking for affordable ancient coins or need any help with the coins you already have send me a message.
After a long time and a lot of hints from you, I want to show my labels:

Just the field at the commemoratives is used for issuing authorities.
Like German States: Prussia.
I'll have a problem with this coin:
https://en.numista.com/catalogue/pieces11321.html
Anyway...
For now I'm writing sovereign, year and catalog number. If denomination is hard to tell I add that too. If there are different versions of that coin from the same year I'll add the distinction as well. Fx:

Christian X 1927
N


KM# 826


But I'm thinking about changing this. I think I'll register my coins in an excel ark, where there's room for all information on each coin, and then only write line number on the holder. That will keep the holder much cleaner, and well, in some cases there isn't much room for information on the holder anyway :)
Quote: "pnightingale"
Quote: "Dato Mikeladze"​I think " Germany" and 1966 are redundant information on the 1966 Germany coin
​​Nooooo.... that's the year we beat them in the World Cup Final. "1966" and "Germany" are forever fixed in the mind of every Englishman. It's like the JFK assassination for the Americans.

​Two world wars and one world cup...... you would think they'd give it up already.
​Don't mention the war!


Seriously though pnightingale I think I'm the complete opposite to you in that I write ALL the information on my flips.

Denomination, place, figurehead on the coin if applicable, the year, the composition and the engravers. I really should have the mintage on there but for my first coins I didn't have that information and then it just didn't happen.
I only write (going clockwise from the top left) the country name, denomination, KM#, and year (+mint mark) plus variety info if applicable. Any other information I can find in my database, though I'm thinking of maybe writing the composition on the obverse.
For those of you who write the KM# on there, what do you do when they change the numbers?
That hasn't happened to me yet, but when it does I'll just write the new number above the old one, like I do with the years for coins which are not dated according to the Gregorian calendar.

FRONT: Country, year, value, KM number, ruler.


BACK: Commemorative issue, if it has it.
On front, top left:
Country (and state/city, if applicable) example: Germany (Prussia Kingdom)
Issuer name (if notgeld or a token)
Denomination
Date and Mintmark

On front, top right:
Inventory/acquisition number (date/alphanumeric) example 98.A66 was the 166th coin purchased in 1998

On front, bottom left:

Ruler's name and regnal years (sometimes)
Grade
Alloy
(if for sale, the number of dates that type was used)
Catalog number (usually KM, HMZ or Saurma) (Lamb or Menzel for notgeld)

On back, at top:
If acquired in an auction, name and date of auction and lot number
for medieval/ancient coins, obverse and reverse legends and descriptions

On back, top right:
For U. S. half cents, the Cohen diepair reference and rarity rating
For German States and Swiss Cantons, the checklist number for the Everycountry Collectors list

On back, bottom left:
My cost, in code

On back, bottom right:
in code, the Seller's asking price, if different from my cost
Quote: "MonaSeaclaid"​For those of you who write the KM# on there, what do you do when they change the numbers?
​Because KM numbers do change, at times, I write them in pencil, and change them to the newest catalog listing.
I used to write these in my stapled coin flips:
  • top left: denomination
  • top right: year
  • bottom left: km#
  • bottom right: own ID number in my database

(I have separated pages for each country/issuer and for each period/ruler within a country/issuer)

Now I'm migrating to autoadhesive (less of a hassle, no need to staple, look better) and I've decided to:
  • no writing anything on the cardboard, because my hand writing is awful and they look all different (the handwriting also evolves with the years and is not consistent)
  • I will print the information for each individual coin on a thick paper with my own printer, cut it down to the size of a coin holder, and put it in the album in another sheet behind the coin. So the album will be like: coin page - info page; coin page - info page; etc. It will look great. Will post pics asap ;)
Quote: "Arnaugir"
  • no writing anything on the cardboard, because my hand writing is awful and they look all different (the handwriting also evolves with the years and is not consistent)​
​This is the reason why I hated looking at my flips back when I used them... now I store all my coins in vinyl holders.
Vinyl? Vinyl is the least archival material that a collector of banknotes or coins could possibly store their coins in. Vinyl will make your coins cloudy and green, as well as making your banknotes greasy.
Do you mean mylar?
Library Media Specialist, columnist, collector, and gardener...
Quote: "Oklahoman"​Vinyl? Vinyl is the least archival material that a collector of banknotes or coins could possibly store their coins in. Vinyl will make your coins cloudy and green, as well as making your banknotes greasy.
​Do you mean mylar?
​I wish I could say yes, but unfortunately, no I meant "soft" vinyl ones. I do know about the horror stories related to vinyl, but that was only clear until well after I'd bought a couple of hundred of them- and so I have to regularly check to see nothing's developing.

Even today I'm accumulating as many non-plasticised and mylar versions of the clear two pocket flips to replace them as possible, but given the size of my collection it's probably going to take a couple of years, unless I suck it up and buy a large quantity of them- and I can never spend my money on supplies when I can get another coin instead. At this point I estimate I've replaced about a quarter to a third, and priority means most of my silvers and UNCs are now in the safer, more rigid types. 100% of my notes are now in mylar sleeves, thanks to a donation from a coin dealer.
Have you considered the little paper envelope 2by2s? They are cheaper and safer for storage til you can get rigids. Might even impart some beautiful toning...
Library Media Specialist, columnist, collector, and gardener...
Quote: "Oklahoman"​Have you considered the little paper envelope 2by2s? They are cheaper and safer for storage til you can get rigids. Might even impart some beautiful toning...
​Yeah, absolutely; I even used them for a while to store low-value coins I had multiple examples of, but after a while they wear through (faster the larger the mass inside it, of course). I tend to prefer clear flips anyhow.
What you position at the top of the front of the coin holder is greatly affected by how you will store/display the coin while it is in the holder. If in drawers of a coin cabinet, or in 20 pocket sheets, it makes little difference.

If, however, you are putting the coins in coin boxes, then having key data at the bottom of the holder is problematic/frustrating.
This is what I do, but I like my things to look pretty.

I guess in a way I love dressing up my flips as it takes up my time. It's kind of like "scrap-booking" meets numismatics. (8
Collector of Third Reich coins (1933 - 1946), and Australian coins.
Not swapping at this time.
This is what I do. I've created a template so I can be more consistent. I haven't been collecting for very long so I am likely to change some things / add things.

https://1drv.ms/u/s!AnuMazfNh6zOhq4HaIdGqkWbde8yYQ
C. Scott Stewart
Charlestown, IN, USA
Name/value, ruler, catalogue numbers, metal, year, mintmark, issuer. Nothing more.
Catalogue administrator
Apparently, I am the only one that documents cost on the holder. Unless you have these records somewhere else, you may eventually have trouble remembering all their costs.

And someone else, having to dispose of your collection, would not know which ones were more valuable.
top left - country name and denomination (if there is room for it; sometimes, due to space limitations, denomination gets pushed to bottom left)
top right - date and mint
bottom left - composition (optional, usually only on silver coins)
bottom right - km#

I also keep an Excel spreadsheet with information on every coin I've purchased, when and where I bought it, how much I paid, etc. This is then used as source data for a couple additional pivot tables/charts to help me track/control my spending.
HoH
The cost codes are not the only cost data that I have. We have Excel spreadsheets (electronic and hardcopy) to back up the purchases.
Top-left corner on the front: Issuer name*
Top-right corner on the front: Value on top*, the date on the bottom
Bottom-left corner on the front: Composition*
Bottom-right corner on the front: Reference Number*
Top-left corner on the back: mass*
Top right corner on the back: date range*
Bottom half on the back: mintage**

*Flips holding American coins do not include this information
** Only flips containing foreign coins with extra value include this information
Everyone here has an impressive system of labelling & storage. Unique styles.
I store mine in albums & coin trays. All information including cost, place bought & swap details are on an Excel sheet. Multiple worksheets for notes & coins.
I do not write anything on the coin-holder, apart from the KM-number on the down-left corner, on the back of the flip. I even cut the 'nose' off from the flip. I like it plain. In my opinion the coin will 'talk' for itself.
...you can run,  but you can't hide...

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